How to tell old native american clothing FROM NEW

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Genuine antique articles of Native American clothing can be quite valuable. Here are some tips to help distinguish between what’s old and what’s not so old.

LEATHER

On leather items, look for signs of wear and discoloration. If an item is uniformly even in color, chances are that it’s a newer re-creation. An older item will show some wear, particularly around areas that have been cut or stitched. Also, older leather may become cracked or brittle with age.

If the leather or rawhide is painted, chances are that older paint will show some signs of aging, such as craquelure, fading, or chipping.

BEADWORK

Antique Native American beadwork will generally show signs of aging, but you may have to examine the item under magnification. Often the colors will show some fading in areas that are more exposed to direct sunlight, than areas that are more in shadow, such as the difference between the top surface of the beads, compared to where the beads abut one another.

Also, check under magnification to see if the beads are stitched together with sinew or cotton thread. Sinew is a stringy, fibrous material, whereas cotton thread looks like…well, cotton thread.

Same idea with porcupine quill work. Often older quill work will darken somewhat, and present variations in color and appearance.

DYES

Often dyes are used to produce a variety of colors. Vegetable dyes were used in earlier items to produce a different colors, such as:

  • Bloodroot for red
  • Alder for red or brown
  • Sumac berries and leaves for red and orange
  • Goldenrod flowers for yellow
  • Black walnut for dark yellow or brown
  • Pokeweed for greenish blue
  • Various lichens, such as Old Man’s Beard, for yellow and orange

Aniline, or coal tar based chemical dyes were introduced in the 1850s, but didn’t come unto widespread use until much later.

At Sisco Antiques Appraisals, we can help you determine the age and value of your Native Americana of all kinds. Just reach out by clicking on the link below.

https://siscoantiquesappraisals.com/appraisal/


Here’s an example of a 19th century pair of Plains Native American beaded leggings. The soft leather and fringe works appeared to be virtually intact, as did the blue and white zigzag beadworks, with the exception of a little separation between the lines of beads, and the threads all appeared to be sinew. It sold for $18,700. Photo courtesy Maine Antique Digest.

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